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Chemical hair texture services
Give you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave pattern and offer your client a variety of styling options that would not be possible otherwise
Cuticle
Tough exterior layer of the hair
Cortex
Responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair
pH
An abbreviation used for potential hydrogen
pH scale range
0-14
Neutral
pH of 7
Acidic
pH below 7
Alkaline
pH above 7
Natural pH of hair
4.5-5.5
Chemical texturizers
Raise the pH of hair to an alkaline state in order to soften the hair shaft
Amino acids
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
Keratin proteins
Long, coiled polypeptide chains, which in turn are comprised of amino acids
Salt bonds
Hydrogen bonds Can be broken by water, whereas ____ ____ are broken by changes in pH
Hydrogen bonds
Are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling), and they reform as the hair dries or cools
Rod
Size and shape of ___, and method of wrapping, determines size and shape of curl
Concave rods
Most common type of perm rod
Straight rods
Equal on diameter along their entire length or curling area
Loop rod
Aka, circle rod
Double flat wrap
Perm wrap, one end paper placed under and one over strand of hair being wrapped. Both papers extend past hair ends. Provides most control over hair ends, and keeps them evenly distributed over entire length of the rod
Single flat wrap
Similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper placed over top of the hair strand
Panels
All perm wraps begin by sectioning hair into _____.
Base sections
Subsections of panels, the hair is divided into for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section
Mark or break the hair
Caution should be used with on-base placement because additional stress can ________.
Croquignole and spiral
Two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the rod are
Croquignole perm wrap
Wrapped from the ends to the scalp on overlapping concentric layers
Spiral perm wrap
The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of rod
True
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction
Reduction reaction
A reaction In permanent waving that is due to the addition of hydrogen
Reducing agent
Commonly referred to as thio is used in permanent waving solutions
Thioglycolic acid
A colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in perm solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by concentration of thio
Alkaline waves
Aka cold waves, were developed in 1941, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temp without adding heat
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
The main active ingredient in true acid waves and acid-balanced waving solutions
Permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer
Three separate components of all acid waves
7.8 and 8.2
Most acid waves found in salons today have a pH level between
Acid balanced waves
Modern acid waves, have a 7.0 or neutral pH
Ectothermic waves
Create an ectothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing
Endothermic waves
Activated by an outside heat source, usually. Conventional hood-type hair dryer
Weak or over processed hair
Will be too weak to hold a firm curl
Thio neutralization
Stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form
Hydrogen peroxide
Most common neutralizer
Basic permanent wrap
Aka straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases
Bricklay perm wrap
Similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticable splits, and to blend the flow of the hair
Weave technique
Uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
Double rod wrap
Aka piggy back wrap
Chemical hair relaxing
A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into straightener or smoother form
"Thio"(ammonium thioglycolate) and sodium hydroxide
Two most common types of chemical hair relaxers
Relaxers
Extremely alkaline and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly. Most relaxers contain the same ingredients used in depilatories.
Japanese thermal straightening
Sometimes called reconditioning or TR, combines use of thio relaxer with flat ironing
Hydroxide relaxers
The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all of these
Differently than
Hydroxide relaxers break disulfide bonds --(the same as OR differently than)-- thio relaxers?
Lanthionization
The process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Contain only one component and are used exactly as they are packaged on the container; no mixing is used
Sodium hydroxide relaxers
Commonly called lye relaxers
Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide relaxers
Often advertised and sold as no mix-no lye relaxers
Guanidine hydroxide relaxers
Contain two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use
No-base relaxers
Do not require the application of a protective base cream
Concentration of hydroxide
The difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers parallels the_________.
Sufficiently relaxed strand
Will remain smooth, if the curl returns, continue processing.
Virgin relaxer
1/4in-1/2in away from the scalp
Normalizing lotions
Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing
Thio relaxer
Do not apply this relaxer or soft curl perm on hair that has been previously treated with hydroxide relaxer